Overdress (anterija)

A garment worn over an embroidered shirt, the overdress (anterija) was worn in wealthy houses, especially in cities, until the early 20th century. It was made out of velvet by master dressmakers (terzi), and was richly ornamented with goldwork, which made it the most expensive article of a woman’s attire. It would take artisans several months to finish a single piece. Some artisans would move in with the family that commissioned the piece, and would stay with the family until the work was finished. 

The overdress had a fully open front. The borders of the opening were ornamented with passamenterie (braiding, cord, beads) and a special kind of terzi embroidery. The sleeves were long and open, which revealed the quality not only of the overdress itself, but also of the garments and jewellery worn underneath. The stylistic features of this particular item point to its being part of a traditional Bosniac costume; in Ottoman times, the colour of garments indicated membership in a particular ethnic or confessional group.